We're expecting cloudy skies and rain at my farm today, but my geese don't seem to mind one bit.
I’ve had Pomeranian guard geese for many years, but I also keep Sebastopol geese, Toulouse geese, African geese, and Chinese geese. They all reside in a large enclosure outside my stable, where they have room to roam, a number of dipping pools, and a shelter providing protection from strong winds and a safe place to nest and lay eggs. Geese are very resilient animals and love the outdoors in all kinds of weather.
Here are some recent photos, enjoy.
Everyone stops to greet the geese when they visit the farm. With their loud honks, barks, and cackles, it’s hard to pass them by. Here’s one coming right up to the entrance to say hello.
These are my Pomeranian guard geese – the oldest of my gaggle.
Here is my pair of Chinese geese. The Chinese goose is refined and curvaceous. It holds its head high and has a long, slim, well-arched neck which meets the body at about a 45 degree angle. Its body is short, and has a prominent and well-rounded chest, smooth breast and no keel. Mature ganders average 12-pounds, while mature geese average 10-pounds.
Their bills are relatively long and slender, with a large, rounded, erect knob that attaches to its forehead.
The Sebastopol is considered a medium-sized bird. Both males and females have pure white feathers that contrast with their bright blue eyes and orange bills and feet. Sebastopol geese have large, rounded heads, slightly arched necks, and keelless breasts.
And what is most striking is the plumage. The plumage of the head and upper two-thirds of the neck is smooth, while that of the breast and underbody is elongated and well-curled. Sebastopol geese cannot fly well due to the curliness of their feathers and have difficulty getting off the ground.
This is one of two African geese at my farm – a breed that has a heavy body, thick neck, stout bill, and jaunty posture. The African is a relative of the Chinese goose, both having descended from the wild swan goose native to Asia. The mature African goose has a large knob attached to its forehead, which requires several years to develop. A smooth, crescent-shaped dewlap hangs from its lower jaw and upper neck. Its body is nearly as wide as it is long.
African geese are the largest of the domestic geese. These two African geese are often found together in the yard. In nature, geese pairs bond and stay together for life. Most of my geese are paired off, but some males will also have two or three female mates. And don’t worry, waterfowl don’t need roosts – they are very happy gathering together and sleeping on the ground.
These buff-brown geese are Toulouse geese. On this breed, the bill is stout, the head large and broad, and the moderately long neck is thick and nearly straight. Often suspended from the lower bill and upper neck is a heavy, folded dewlap that increases in size and fullness with age. The body is long, broad and deep, ending in a well-spread tail that points up slightly. They are great guard geese – they scare off any animals on the ground and they can spot aerial predators, such as hawks and falcons quickly.
Geese are grazing birds that eat a variety of different items. They eat roots, shoots, stems, seeds, and leaves of grass and grain, bulbs, and berries. They also eat small insects.
In addition, I fortify their diet with a feed mix specifically made for waterfowl. And I always give them lots of vegetables from my gardens. They pick at them during the day. This goose is hoping some fresh greens will soon be placed into this trough.
This is Bear. He was incubated and hatched right here at the farm. He is about two-years-old and is very attached to the humans, although his “affectionate” pecks can sometimes be a bit insistent.
In winter and early spring, we put down a large bed of hay for the geese. It serves as a bed for keeping warm, but it also allows for good footing when it’s icy. We use hay grown right here at the farm. The older hay my horses won’t eat is perfect for use as insulation around my greenhouses and for the geese enclosure.
Do you know… a group of geese on land is called a gaggle? This is because when geese get together they can get quite noisy and rowdy.
In flight, a group of geese is called a skein, team or wedge. On the water or flying close together, a group is referred to as a wedge of geese.
And, while the term “goose” may refer to either a male or female bird, when paired with “gander”, the word goose refers specifically to a female. Gander is the term used to identify a male.
Domestic geese have plump bodies, slender necks, and humped bills that taper at the end of the mouth. Some geese have rounder heads than others.
Most domestic geese also have larger back ends than their wild counterparts and stand more upright.
Geese also have impressive visual capabilities. The way their eyes are structured allows them to see things in much finer detail at a further distance than humans. They can also see UV light and can control each of their eyes independently.
While both ducks and geese love water, geese don’t require a pond or large swimming pool – they swim much less than ducks and are content with a small dipping pool where they can dunk and clean their noses and beaks.
My gaggle of geese is fun, friendly, personable and protective. I enjoy their company here at Cantitoe Corners.
It's amazing how quickly plants grow - there's something new to see every day.
Here at my farm, the trees are budding and various flowers are bursting with color and energy - Chionodoxa, Puschkinia, Anemone, corydalis, primrose, Cornus mas the cornelian cherry tree, and of course the daffodils. All the beds are coming alive just days before Easter.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Chionodoxa, known as glory-of-the-snow, is a small genus of bulbous perennial flowering plants in the family Asparagaceae, subfamily Scilloideae, often included in Scilla. Planted beneath trees or directly in the lawn, they multiply quickly and appear in early spring.
Chionodoxa spread in two different ways. Over time, “daughter” bulbs form alongside the original bulbs, but the blossoms also produce seeds.
They also come in dainty pink. The flowers have six-petaled clustered pale flowers with white centers atop dark stems and sparse, narrow foliage.
These darker blue flowers are Siberian squill. Native to southwestern Russia, the Caucasus, and Turkey, these plants grow to about four to eight inches tall and spread out and bloom profusely this time of year.
Also known as scilla, it is a perennial with two to four strap-shaped leaves that appear at the same time as the nodding, bell-shaped flowers.
Puschkinia is a genus of four known species of bulbous perennials in the family Asparagaceae. It is native to the Caucasus and the Middle East. Puschkinia grows so beautifully in clumps – I have several areas filled with these delicate small flowers.
Each Puschkinia plant produces a single flower stalk covered in a cluster of small bluish white flowers. The flowers feature delicate blue stripes down each petal and a pleasant light fragrance.
This is Puschkinia scilloides var. libanotica alba. All Puschkinia varieties take time to mature, but if it’s happy where it’s planted and left undisturbed, it naturalizes by bulb offsets called bulbils or baby bulbs.
Corydalis has bright, colorful flowers above mounds of delicate foliage. Of the 400 or so species of corydalis with differing colors, these are dark pink flowers growing outside my studio.
Corydalis also comes in this pink-purple color. It is native to the woodland areas of North America, so it grows best in sun-dappled shade and moist, well-drained soil.
Many of the crocuses are also still blooming beautifully. This crocus flower produces several upright, cup-like, purple and white striped blooms on stems rising to four to six inches above basal, grass-like leaves.
These dark purple croci are growing outside my Basket House. They look great planted in bunches. Choose a planting site where there is well-draining soil.
Here are a few of the many peonies just waking up from their winter slumber. These are tree peony buds growing in a bed under dappled shade outside my Summer House. Tree peonies are deciduous sub-shrubs that bloom for a week to 10 days in mid to late spring with big, fragrant peony flowers.
This is a hyacinth. Hyacinths are native to Turkey, Syria and Lebanon and come in shades of blue, purple, white, pink, or apricot. Do not confuse them with grape hyacinth, Muscari, which are smaller, hardier, and native to Europe and Asia. While they’re not directly related, the plants have similar features and care needs.
The “wildflower” Anemone produces pretty low-growing periwinkle blooms in early- to mid-spring. I have these daisy-like flowers growing behind my Winter House courtyard under a tall hornbeam hedge.
These Anemones are darker purple in color. Anemones are easy to grow and unappealing to most animals, including deer, rabbits, and rodents.
Outside my Summer House is this Cornus mas, commonly known as cornelian cherry – a deciduous shrub or small tree that is native to central and southern Europe into western Asia. It typically grows over time to 15 to 25 feet tall with a spread to 12 to 20 feet wide. Yellow flowers on short stalks bloom in early spring before the leaves emerge in dense, showy, rounded clusters.
Here is a primrose, with its dark green leaves and umbrels of colorful bright yellow flowers. Primroses thrive in partial shade.
Sedum does really well growing between the crevices in stone walls. We planted this sedum several years ago. Sedum has fleshy, water-storing leaves and is drought tolerant. I am so happy with how well they do here in the stone wall along my Winter House terrace parterre. Patches of bold red show through in early spring every year. These plants are also known as stonecrops.
More and more daffodils are opening every day. I plant early, mid and late-season blooming varieties so that sections of beautiful flowers can be seen throughout the season. Here are three perfect daffodil blooms…
… And just wait, there are so many more to come. Look at the foliage – so green and plentiful. I cannot wait to share photos of the swaths of daffodil flowers blooming along the border that stretches down one side of my farm.
And just like clockwork, this time every year my outdoor grounds crew begins the process of removing all the burlap around the farm, exposing the lush green boxwood that has been covered all winter long.
Every autumn for as long as I’ve been gardening I’ve covered all my boxwood shrubs and outdoor ornamental urns to protect them from the season’s heavy snowfall, freezing temperatures, and damaging winds. Then, every spring when the ground begins to thaw, it’s all removed and stored away. The entire process is a big undertaking; however, knowing my plants are protected in the cold is a great comfort. And seeing all the healthy, intact shrubbery and foliage at the start of a new season is an even greater delight.
Enjoy these photos.
During winter, all the boxwood shrubs and hedges are covered in this natural colored fabric. Fortunately, the weather here has been pretty mild these last couple of weeks – perfect timing to start our burlap removal project.
This is the biggest stretch of burlap-covered boxwood at the farm, the Boxwood Allée, which runs from outside my stable all the way down to the intersection leading into the woodland.
At one end, the boxwood also runs perpendicular to the allée carriage road – all of it is covered in burlap for the duration of the cold season.
We remove the burlap once the temperatures are consistently above freezing and before Easter. All of the coverings are custom wrapped and sewn to fit each individual shrub, hedge, or bush. Chhiring starts by removing the wooden strips that help sandwich and secure the burlap at the base.
The strips are collected and stored for next year. We keep all the pieces grouped separately and neatly.
Next, the burlap is carefully pulled off the steel frames.
Here, Chhiring and Cesar pull a long section and begin to roll the burlap.
The burlap covers can be used for three seasons. Once they are no longer useable as covers, they are repurposed in the gardens to prevent weeds.
All the rolls of burlap must be kept dry when not in use. One of the few downsides to this fabric is that it will start to fray and disintegrate after time, especially if exposed to moisture. Here is one roll of fabric. It may not look it, but this roll is quite heavy.
It’s always so nice to see the boxwood once the burlap is removed. For the frames we use the same metal used to make hoop houses – strong industrial steel ground uprights and purlin pipes. These materials not only provide the necessary support frames for the burlap but also accommodate any plant growth.
Chhiring removes the fasteners called tension purlin brackets. They connect the center piping to the bow sections of the frame.
All the purlin brackets and pipes are saved from year to year.
After they are properly dismantled, each piece of framing is neatly stacked, so it can be picked up quickly and hauled away to storage. These pipes are made from rolled galvanized 16 gauge industrial tubing. The top pieces are 10-foot wide bow sections – these frames will last quite a while, I hope.
The next step is to remove the metal legs that hold up the hoop structures along the allée. There are many steps – taking down the burlap is a much faster process than putting the burlap up, but it’s still very time-consuming.
Here, the frames and legs are removed and all that’s left are the small wooden stakes that hold the legs in place.
The metal framing and pipes are all carefully loaded onto our dump truck and taken to a back storage area.
The boxwood hedges on both sides of my long and winding pergola have also been uncovered. The burlap removal reveals what we hope for every year – green, healthy boxwood. Soon, these beds will be filled with colorful alliums, lilies, camassia, and fritillaria.
This is the other side. All these boxwood shrubs were nurtured and grown here at the farm from small bare-root plants. I am so proud of how well they have developed.
This hedge is outside my Winter House. My outdoor grounds crew is moving quickly to get all the burlap off.
Some question whether covering the boxwood each winter really helps, but look how lush and intact the plantings are when exposed – I definitely feel it is worth the time and effort.