Regular care and maintenance are essential to keeping the trees and plants at my farm healthy and beautiful throughout the seasons.
Four years ago, I began creating a garden maze of distinctive hedges, espaliers, and shrubs in the pasture across the carriage road from my Winter House terrace. Following a detailed plan that I designed specifically for the space, I selected and planted hundreds of different specimens to provide year-round texture, structure, and interest. This week, my grounds crew is working on mulching the beds, which improves soil health, conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates temperature, and enhances overall plant growth and beauty.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
A living garden maze is a puzzle of plantings. Rows branch off with various pathway options and dead ends – with only one correct route to the center. I designed the maze in this three acre pasture, where I could see it right from my window. This row shows Upright Japanese Plum Yews, Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata.’ These have a carefree, vertical growth habit. The foliage is finely textured, shiny, dark green, and deer resistant.
Everything is looking so lush and green, in part because of the maintenance and care I give them throughout the year. This is a row of young arborvitae.
Each shrub or bush is planted appropriately with enough space to accommodate its full grown size.
Just in the last month, some of the rows had become overcome by pesky weeds. Here, it’s hard to even notice this row of Burkwood Viburnum, Viburnum x burkwoodii. Chhiring uses a piece of spare siding as an edge marker. This makes the task so much easier and faster.
Using the strip as a guide, Chhiring drops small amounts of mulch along the bed. This rich, dark mulch is made right here at the farm – this batch is one year old.
Chhiring carefully spreads the mulch down around the plants and over the weeds.
And then he spreads it outward until the edge of the siding strip.
I am so proud of the mulch I make here. For most gardens, a two to four inch layer is sufficient. I mulch and compost my gardens once or twice a year.
Chhiring has a clear guide for mulching and the mulch will kill the weeds by blocking them from the light. The mulch will also act as a barrier that keeps weed seeds buried too deep to germinate.
Here, one can see more of the plants. the bed is looking great already.
When the job is complete, the row looks so much better.
And in this area, a selection of handsome London planetrees, Platanus acerifolia ‘Bloodgood,’ a relative of the mighty sycamore. These trees are large shade trees with broad open crowns. They were the perfect choice for the center of my maze, where they will surround and shade an open space.
The leaves are light to dark green with three to five pointed lobes. These planetree leaves look similar to maple or sycamore tree leaves. The large, pointed leaves with toothed margins measure about seven inches long and up to 10 inches wide.
Its most striking feature is the naturally shedding bark, which peels in thin, curly strips to reveal a dappled pattern of cream, ivory, and olive-green.
I instructed the crew to make it completely straight on top – it’s another job well done.
Monrovia, a wholesale plant nursery specializing in shrubs, perennials, annuals, ferns, grasses, and conifers with several nursery locations across the country, helped me to finish the maze. Their plant collection is exceptional – please look out for Monrovia whenever shopping for plants.
This is holly, which features bright red berries combined with glossy, dark green foliage. Many varieties of holly, Ilex, have compact habits and glistening leaves that’s excellent for hedges, borders, and yes, mazes.
Everyone at the farm admired the weeping blue atlas spruce, Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula.’ This dramatic weeping evergreen is naturally slow-growing with a sprawling horizontal habit that is often trained into an upright, serpentine form. Pendant branchlets display icy-blue needles.
At the end of certain rows, I placed anchoring specimen trees to add more interest. I am so proud of how it came out.
And close to the north end of my maze is my giant eagle looking out toward the landscape beyond. It’s taken careful planning and planting and now I’m looking forward to watching all these plants mature and also confuse those who dare stroll through.
It’s always so satisfying to check off time-consuming cleaning projects.
Yesterday, my housekeepers started cleaning and polishing my silver. This task is done regularly - at least twice a year to remove tarnish, restore shine, and help preserve the value and craftsmanship of the pieces. There are several ways to clean silver. One popular nontoxic method is to fill an aluminum pan with hot water, add salt and baking soda, stir until dissolved, and then soak the silver until a chemical reaction removes the tarnish. While this technique is quicker than polishing by hand, some experts caution it may cause pitting and can strip away the beautiful patina many collectors appreciate. Using a silver polishing cloth made specifically for precious metals is another convenient option. I prefer using a high-quality, non-abrasive commercial silver polishing cream for routine care.
Enjoy these photos.
Polishing silver three or four times a year is the best way to keep it in good condition.
Look at this piece, which was cleaned and polished just last February. It is already slightly tarnished.
These pieces also need a fresh polishing – they are a bit gold in color. While tarnish is not considered damage, it dulls the metal’s appearance and can obscure fine details.
I’ve used Wright’s Silver Cream for years. Wright’s Silver Cream is a gentle all-purpose polish that works on all types of silver. It also works nicely on stainless steel and chrome.
After washing this silver dish with dish soap and warm water to remove any dust, Enma applies a small amount of silver cream.
Enma rubs both sides of the dish, thoroughly spreading the cream on every surface of the piece. Tarnish ranges in color from a light yellowy gold to almost black, depending on how long it has been allowed to develop. In addition to using soft sponges and rags, use cotton swabs to apply the cream to tight spots and crevices when cleaning.
After rubbing the piece with silver cream, rinse the piece very well with warm water.
All the cleaning is done on a terry cloth towel lining the bottom of the sink, so the metal doesn’t bang against any surfaces. The towel is also a good idea to use when washing special china… just in case anything slips through the fingers.
Here, Enma cleans two small trays. After rinsing off the silver cream, she washes the pieces with dish soap and water again to ensure all the cream is removed.
Enma does this carefully and thoughtfully to ensure there is no soapy residue.
Once a piece is completely cleaned and polished, it is dried with a soft absorbent cloth right away to avoid any water marks. Never let silver air dry.
These pieces are shining beautifully once again.
Enma does the same with this large serving tray. First she applies the cream. The silver will start to brighten as it is rubbed. Always use silver polishes that are non-abrasive, and opt for formulas, such as creams and gels instead of sprays.
Then rinses off the cream and washes it with dish soap and water.
Finally, it is dried thoroughly. Enma is sure to wipe every area, getting into the tight spaces carefully. It’s also a good idea to use gloves when taking on this task, so the cleaning cream does not come into contact with the skin.
Here’s Enma with the freshly polished tray. Another tip – never clean silver in the dishwasher. The detergents’ aggressive chemicals, combined with the washer’s high cleaning temperature, will eventually turn it grey or white, with a dull, non-reflective surface.
The tray is then returned to its spot in my Brown Room.
And all the silver pieces are placed on top. Because my silver is cleaned regularly, it doesn’t take too much time to get the job done.
And look at the difference in color between this tarnished bowl and the newly polished pieces – the small bowl is next to be cleaned and polished.
The joy of owning beautiful silver pieces does require some work to keep everything looking beautiful, but it is all well worth the effort.
Here in the Northeast we've had several days of heavy rain, but one group around my farm couldn't be happier - my gaggle of geese.
I share my farm with 14 beautiful geese, including Sebastopols, Toulouse, Africans, Chinese, and, of course, my ever-watchful Pomeranian guard geese. For these birds, rainy weather can be very beneficial. It gives them the chance to bathe and preen, keeps their feathers in top waterproof condition, softens the ground for easier foraging, and helps them stay cool and comfortable in the warmer weather.
Here are a few photos, enjoy.
Hard to tell, but this photo was taken when it was pouring rain – and the geese are loving it. My geese have a large yard located right outside my stable.
They enjoy being out in the rain, flapping their wings and walking through the mud and muck.
They also love to gather close together most of the time. And do you know, a group of geese on land is called a gaggle. This is because when geese get together they can get quite noisy and rowdy.
And, while the term “goose” may refer to either a male or female bird, when paired with “gander,” the word goose refers specifically to a female. Gander is the term used to identify a male. Here is my pair of Chinese geese. The Chinese goose is refined and curvaceous.
The Chinese goose holds its head high. Its head flows seamlessly into a long, slim, well-arched neck which meets the body at about a 45 degree angle. Its body is short, and has a prominent and well-rounded chest, smooth breast and no keel. Mature ganders average 12 pounds, while mature geese average 10 pounds. Their bills are relatively long and slender, with a large, rounded, erect knob that attaches to its forehead.
Look closely at the Chinese geese in the back compared to the Sebastopol goose in front. The Chinese geese most likely descended from the swan goose in Asia, though over time developed different physical characteristics, such as longer necks and more compact bodies. The Chinese goose is a very hardy and low-maintenance breed.
Most domestic geese have larger back ends than their wild counterparts and stand more upright.
In flight, a group of geese is called a skein. On the water or flying close together, specifically in a “V” formation, a group is referred to as a wedge of geese.
Everyone asks about the Sebastopols. These birds are considered medium-sized birds. Both males and females have pure white feathers that contrast with their bright blue eyes and orange bills and feet. Sebastopol geese have large, rounded heads, slightly arched necks, and keelless breasts.
And what is most striking is the plumage. A Sebastopol’s plumage of the head and upper two-thirds of the neck is smooth, while that of the breast and underbody is elongated and well-curled. Though domesticated breeds of geese generally retain some flight ability, Sebastopol geese cannot fly well due to the curliness of their feathers and have difficulty getting off the ground.
This is a male African goose – a breed that has a heavy body, thick neck, stout bill, and jaunty posture which gives the impression of strength and vitality. The African is a relative of the Chinese goose, both having descended from the wild swan goose native to Asia.
The mature African goose has a large knob attached to its forehead, which requires several years to develop. A smooth, crescent-shaped dewlap hangs from its lower jaw and upper neck. Its body is nearly as wide as it is long. African geese are the largest of the domestic geese.
His mate is never far behind.
And this buff-brown goose is called a Toulouse. On this breed, the bill is stout, the head large and broad, and the moderately long neck is thick and nearly straight. Often suspended from the lower bill and upper neck is a heavy, folded dewlap that increases in size and fullness with age. The body is long, broad and deep, ending in a well-spread tail that points up slightly. And thanks to the breed’s honks, my Toulouse geese make excellent guardians. They can scare off any animals on the ground and they’re great at spotting aerial predators, such as hawks and falcons.
Here is a Pomeranian guard goose preening, or cleaning its feathers with its beak.
The rain gives the geese a great opportunity to clean themselves.
While both ducks and geese love water, geese don’t require a pond or large swimming pool – they swim much less than ducks and are content with a small dipping pool where they can dunk and clean their noses and beaks. My geese have lots of vessels and pools in which to dunk their heads or entire bodies in refreshing water.
Geese are grazing birds which means they eat a variety of different items. They eat roots, shoots, stems, seeds, and leaves of grass and grain, bulbs, and berries. They also eat small insects. In addition, I fortify their diet with a mix specifically made for waterfowl.
Geese also have impressive visual capabilities. The way their eyes are structured allows them to see things in much finer detail at a further distance than humans. They can also see UV light and can control each of their eyes independently.
And waterfowl don’t need roosts – they are very happy gathering together and sleeping on the ground.
This is Bear. He was incubated and hatched right here at the farm. He is about five years old and is very attached to the humans, but his “affectionate” pecks can sometimes be a bit insistent.
My gaggle of geese is fun, friendly, personable, and very protective. It’s a joy to have them here at Cantitoe Corners.
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