My long and winding pergola is full of striking orange-colored tiger lily blooms.
This pergola, located on one side of a carriage road near my Tenant House, goes through several transformations during the year. In winter, the garden sleeps - tan colored burlap is what one sees along its border. In late spring, a palette of bold purple and white alliums covers the beds, followed by the shades of lavender and blue from the flowering clematis vines that wrap around each of the granite posts. Now, hundreds of brightly spotted tiger lilies line the garden bed for all to see - and they are thriving.
Enjoy these photos.
Tiger lilies, Lilium lancifolium, bloom in mid to late summer, are easy to grow and come back year after year.
Native to China and Japan, these robust flowers add striking beauty to any border. I love how they look with their bright and showy orange colored blooms.
This is my pergola in late winter – the boxwood border is covered in protective burlap and the beds are covered in a new layer of mulch. Spring blooming bulbs are just beginning to poke through the soil.
By late May, this pergola garden is filled with lots of blue and purple flowers. This palette of colors is a big favorite at the farm – it grows more colorful and vibrant every spring.
The beds are filled with Camassia, alliums, Hyacinthoides or Spanish bluebells, and others.
In late June, the blues and purples give way to bold green lily stems.
And now the entire south side of the pergola is covered in bright orange.
Tiger lilies are covered with black or deep crimson spots, giving the appearance of the skin of a tiger. They have large, down-facing flowers, each with six recurved petals. Many flowers can be up to five inches in diameter.
The tiger lily’s petals bend back far during the flowering cycle, curling up against its own stem and exposing the stamens and pistol for visiting pollinators.
Lilies are well-known for having heavily pollinated stamens, which stain. Here, it is easy to see those pollen-filled anthers. When cutting, always remove the anthers to prevent a clothing disaster – just pinch them off with gloved fingers.
The blackish, round “seeds” that develop in the axils of the leaves along the main stem are called bulbils.
There are also a few white lilies in this bed – adding more interest to the floral display.
This lily is white and orange with bright orange stamens, which also stain.
And there are still more lilies that have yet to open.
Lilies can grow very tall – many are more than six-feet. Most lilies have strong wiry stems, but those with heavy flower heads often need support. Here’s Phurba wrapping the pergola section with jute twine.
Bamboo stakes are hammered into the soil every few feet and then jute twine is looped around the top to give support to the tall lily stems.
The twine is about three feet high supporting the middle of the lilies and just above the boxwood shrub border.
The boxwood shrubs I grew from cuttings. They’ve developed and grown into nicely sized specimens. Buxus is a genus of at least 70-species in the family Buxaceae. There are more than 300 boxwood shrubs planted on both sides of the pergola.
On the granite posts, there are a few lasting clematis flowers. I have grown many varieties of this wonderful plant. Most species are called clematis, but it has also been called traveller’s joy, virgin’s bower, leather flower, or vase vine.
In this garden, I also have pops of daylilies. The daylily is a low-maintenance perennial—easy to grow, virtually disease- and pest-free, and able to survive drought, uneven sunlight, and poor soil. Despite the name, daylilies are not “true lilies.” Leaves grow from a crown and the flowers form on leafless stems called “scapes,” which rise above the foliage.
On the back side of the pergola garden I planted lots of Russian Sage with its tall, airy, spike-like clusters of lavender-blue flowers above finely textured, aromatic foliage.
Across the carriage road, there are more orange tiger lilies blooming in my Stewartia Garden under the tall and stately bald cypress trees.
The entire pergola border and its surrounding gardens, trees, and other specimens provide a spectacular show every summer.
I grow a lot of garlic here at my Bedford, New York farm and up at Skylands, my home in Maine. I plant it in the fall, harvest it the following summer, and then let it thoroughly cure in a dry, warm place. Yesterday, the garlic was cleaned and trimmed - a process that takes some time to complete, but is the last step before bringing the garlic in to use and enjoy.
Here are some photos.
Early last month, my gardeners picked this season’s crop of garlic. I always grow lots of garlic to use in my cooking and to share with my daughter, Alexis.
Determining when garlic is ready to harvest can be tricky. If it’s harvested too soon, the cloves are small and underdeveloped. If harvested too late, the clove heads begin to separate, making them more vulnerable to decay. The real indicator is the plant itself – when the bottom leaves have turned brown, and the top leaves are still green.
These garlic heads were picked at the right time. Each one is pulled out carefully from the base of the leaves so that the head comes out completely.
As the garlic is harvested, it is placed in a breathable tray, so the heads stay dry.
And then they are all taken to a well-ventilated warm location with good air circulation so they can start to cure. It’s wise to avoid full sun and direct sunlight, as it can alter the flavor. These dried in my carport, where it is protected from any elements.
Garlic curing time can take two to four weeks, depending on the environment and humidity levels. In drier areas, garlic can be fully cured in three to four weeks, but humid climates may take up to five weeks or longer.
Yesterday the garlic looked markedly different. Garlic is considered cured when the outer skin is dry and crispy, the stem neck is constricted, and the cut stem’s center is hard. It’s been about a month since they were picked.
The next part of the process to get them ready for storage and use is to trim and clean each garlic head. Enma wipes each long stalk with a rag removing any excess dirt.
And then she trims each one leaving about a three to four inch stalk. Trimming the stalks makes it easier to store and keeps them neat and uniform.
There is a lot of garlic to clean and trim, so Enma does this in a production line process which is fast and efficient.
Next she trims the roots being careful not to cut the skins that protect the cloves.
Sometimes garlic will grow together like this. Trim and clean it in the same way.
Enma wipes the garlic clean with a dry cloth.
And gently removes the outermost dirty papery skin, leaving a few layers intact.
Here is one head of garlic ready to store for later use – white, clean, and dry.
And remember, a garlic head, also known as a garlic bulb, is the entire bulb of garlic as seen on the right. A garlic clove is one of the individual segments that make up the bulb as seen on the left.
Enma groups the finished garlic on newspaper.
It takes some time to get through all the garlic. After curing, garlic can be kept in good condition for one to two months at ambient temperatures of 68 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit under low relative humidity.
Enma is happy with this year’s bounty – nearly every head is in excellent condition.
They’re placed in a single layer to continue drying as each head is trimmed and cleaned. Store clean garlic bulbs in breathable bags, boxes, or trays and place in a cool, dark place with good airflow. This will help the garlic last longer and prevent it from sprouting or molding. I now have lots of garlic to share with my family and friends.
There's always a long list of gardening chores to complete here at my Bedford, New York farm.
The fiddle leaf fig, Ficus lyrata, is a species of flowering plant in the mulberry and fig family Moraceae. It is native to western Africa, from Cameroon west to Sierra Leone, where it grows in lowland tropical rainforests. Named for its large, leathery, glossy green leaves, the fiddle leaf fig is a very popular indoor houseplant, and when given plenty of light, and enough soil and room in its planter, it can grow quickly and beautifully for years. Yesterday, my head gardener tended to one that needed repotting.
Enjoy these photos.
This is my vegetable greenhouse. This structure is located near my Equipment Barn. It uses minimal artificial heat, where many cold hardy crops and other greens can be grown and harvested through the winter.
There are 16 wooden garden boxes in this greenhouse. They fit the entire length and width of the space. Right now, all my crops are growing outdoors in my large half-acre vegetable garden, but this greenhouse is well maintained off-season, so it is ready to plant in the fall.
In one corner is this fiddle leaf fig tree, which needs repotting. I have always been fond of these large ornamental specimens. This one is very healthy, so it grows quickly and needs a larger container.
The leaves of the fiddle leaf fig sprout only from the branches and can get quite large. They are also rigid with a leathery feel. As they grow, the leaves are covered by a protective papery bract that shrivels and dries once the leaf fully emerges.
Here is the underside of one leaf. Healthy leaves should show no signs of yellowing, browning, blemishes, or spots.
The fiddle leaf fig is a tropical tree closely related to other Ficus trees. Mature stems and the trunk have a thin woody bark.
Using a sharp knife, Ryan cuts off a couple inches from all sides of the root ball. This is very effective in the future development of a strong root system.
Ryan also gives the bottom of the root ball a good trim. These cuts stimulate new root growth. We do this with all our plants that are repotted – it’s called scarifying the roots, which helps them to get more air, water, and nutrients.
The hole at the bottom of the new pot is covered with a stone. I also use shards of broken pots. Doing this prevents soil from falling out as the water drains.
Ryan starts to fill the pot with an appropriate potting mix.
Always use fresh potting soil when transplanting as old potting mix tends to be soggy and depleted of nutrients. The pot is filled about a third of the way up.
Miracle-Gro Osmocote Plus is a slow-release plant food that can feed for up to six months.
The soil gets a sprinkling of Osmocote – small, round coated prills filled with nutrients.
Ryan trims off any dying or poor looking leaves.
And then places the tree into its new container. This fiddle leaf fig is easy to repot. With about two to three inches of space around the root ball, the new pot is the perfect size for this specimen.
Next, he ensures it is sitting at the proper height. The top of the root ball should sit about an inch below the rim of the container.
Next, he centers the tree and turns it, so its best side is facing out.
Once the tree is properly positioned, Ryan backfills the sides with more soil mix. The extra room at the top prevents soil from overflowing when watered.
Fiddle leaf figs grow below the forest canopy, so it should be placed where the tree will receive very bright, but indirect light all day. In proper conditions, it can grow to 10-feet tall when kept indoors as a houseplant.
Fiddle leaf fig trees prefer to dry out completely between waterings, and while they take a good deal of water to keep healthy, consistent moisture will drown it. Check the tree regularly and do not water if the top two-inches of soil are still moist from the previous watering.
This fiddle leaf fig will continue to thrive in this greenhouse, where it will be exposed to consistent temperatures, proper humidity, and minimal drafts.
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