The beds in my vegetable garden are filling up quickly.
My gardeners and outdoor ground crew have been very busy in the vegetable garden. After cleaning, cultivating, and adding nutrient rich compost to all the raised beds, they started planting a number of crops. Many plants are started from seed indoors, such as the brassicas, also known as cruciferous vegetables - broccoli, kale, cauliflower, and cabbage. Other seeds are planted directly into the soil. Soon the entire garden will be filled with rows of wonderful produce.
Enjoy these photos.
In March, once the weather is warm enough to work in the beds, we start preparing them for planting.
This giant half-acre vegetable garden is doing so well. My gardener and I decide what plants will go where – always keeping in mind where crops were planted the preceding year. Rotating the vegetables gives various nutrients to the soil and improves soil stability by alternating between crops with deep roots and those with shallow roots. Pests are also deterred by eliminating their food source on a regular basis.
Look at all the beautiful beds now ready to be planted. It is very easy to plant in raised beds because of the light, fluffy, well-drained soil, which encourages vigorous plant growth.
Some of the first plants we get into the ground include the brassicas. Brassica is a genus of plants in the mustard family. Members are informally known as cruciferous vegetables, cabbages, or mustard plants. They are also sometimes called cole crops – cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale – all started from seed in the greenhouse.
Ryan thinks through the measurements of each bed to assess how many rows of each vegetable can be planted in the space. He takes into consideration the number of plants and the size of the vegetables when mature. Ryan places as many as he can in the bed without compromising the needs of each plant.
This is one of our cabbage plants grown from seed. Cabbage has flat or curly, tight, or loose leaves; and comes in green, white, red, and purple colors.
My gardens are often photographed and videotaped for television, print, and social media – from the ground and from up above, so it is crucial that they look their best. Ryan lines up the plants so they can be planted in perfectly straight rows.
Josh carefully plants each one. They should be planted in holes just slightly deeper than the container depth – about half the stem should be buried. Brassicas also require exposure to full sun – at least six to eight hours per day. Lack of sunlight may produce thin, leggy plants and subpar heads.
For planting Josh uses a narrow trowel. it is made of stainless steel, with a five-inch by three-inch blade and a five-inch handle.
Josh places the plant in the hole, backfills, and then lightly tamps down on the soil around the plant.
Here’s the cabbage bed all planted.
These are Chinese cabbage plants. Here, one can see how they are planted so they all have enough room to grow. The plants are about 12 inches apart. The trick to growing brassicas is steady, uninterrupted growth. That means rich soil, plenty of water, and good fertilization.
Chinese cabbage takes about two months to mature. The plant produces dense, barrel-shaped heads of pale, thin, tender leaves.
In this bed, we planted kale. Kale grows best in full sun and likes fertile, well-draining soil to grow fast and produce tender leaves.
Depending on the variety, kale can have long, crinkly leaves ranging from pale green to almost black, with a nutty, earthy flavor. Curly kale has tightly ruffled, slightly bitter leaves, varying from bright green to purple-tinged.
Wooden markers are used to identify all the rows, so we know what varieties do best.
At the end of the beds, we also plant herbs. This is oregano, an herb from the mint, or Lamiaceae family, which adds a peppery bite and slight sweetness to foods.
We also planted a bed of broccoli. Broccoli is ready to harvest 50 to 90 days after transplanting, depending on the variety.
Broccoli is one of the healthiest vegetables and is high in vitamin-C and fiber.
There’s a lot more planting to do, but it’s a great start to the planting season. Have you started planting in your vegetable garden?
Do you know… one large, mature tree can can produce more than 270-liters of oxygen a day? That's nearly half of what the average human needs in a day. The earth needs trees.
Every year I plant hundreds, sometimes thousands of trees here at the farm - it's one way I can give back to the Earth and help create a cleaner, healthier and more sustainable planet for my grandchildren and for everyone. Not long ago, we received a shipment of bare root cuttings from JLPN, a family owned tree company in Salem, Oregon. Bare root trees are so named because the plants are dug from the ground while dormant, and stored without any soil surrounding their roots. Once the young specimens arrived, my gardeners hurried to pot them in nutrient-filled composted soil to keep them healthy until they can be transplanted in the ground.
Enjoy these photos.
This is a bald cypress tree, Taxodium distichum, in summer. It is one of several that line one side of the carriage road across from my long pergola. And it is one of thousands that I planted since purchasing my farm.
Since I plant so many trees, I get some that are older and taller for various gardens, and many in the form of bare-root cuttings for hedges, or larger group plantings. Each bundle here contains 25, 50, or 100-cuttings. JLPN’s cuttings are harvested in December, graded, and then held in cold storage until they are shipped out in spring.
The root portion of the plant is placed in the water and left to soak overnight. This good soaking helps the plants get off to a better start. Among the benefits of getting bare root cuttings is that they are very easy to inspect for root development – roots should never have a dry, grayish appearance, or in contrast, be saturated or water-logged.
I feel the bare root trees do best when potted up and nurtured for a period of time before being transplanted in their permanent locations. I have a fenced area designated for these trees in one corner of my middle hay field.
These newest specimens will remain here for about a year or two until they are planted in the ground.
For potting up the trees, we use a nutrient-filled composted manure and top soil mix.
A generous sprinkling of fertilizer developed specially for young trees is added and mixed into the soil.
We save pots whenever we can – they always come in handy for projects like this, and I always encourage the crew to reuse supplies whenever possible.
The trees in this shipment include bald cypress, Japanese maples, witch hazel, black locust, and hornbeams. A large marker indicating the common name and the botanical name is made for each variety.
The hornbeam, Carpinus betulus, is a fast-growing deciduous tree. Carpinus betulus is native to Western Asia and central, eastern, and southern Europe, including southern England. Because of its dense foliage and tolerance to being cut back, this hornbeam is popularly used for hedges and topiaries.
With more than a thousand varieties and cultivars including hybrids, the iconic Japanese maple tree is among the most versatile small trees for use in the landscape. Japanese maples are native to areas of Japan, Korea, China, and Russia. In Japan, the maple is called the “autumn welcoming tree” and is planted in the western portion of gardens – the direction from which fall arrives there.
Japanese maple forms can be weeping, rounded, dwarf, mounding, upright, or cascading. Red leafed cultivars are the most popular, followed by green shrubs with deeply dissected leaves.
Japanese maples prefer slightly acidic, well-draining soil in sheltered areas with morning sun. My Japanese Maple Woodland is located in the perfect spot just beyond my allée of lindens.
Witch hazel grows as small trees or shrubs with numerous clusters of rich yellow to fiery orange-red flowers.
They perform best in full sun, or filtered shade. Witch hazels also possess shallow, slow-growing root systems, which do best in large planting areas. Fortunately, I have a lot of room to grow these pretty shrubs. I have several mature shrubs near my Summer House and more near my allée of lindens.
Black locust trees, Robinia pseudoacacia, is a medium-sized hardwood deciduous tree, belonging to the tribe Robinieae. These are the leaflets of the black locust – pinnate with seven to 21 oval leaflets on each leaf branch. A leaflet, occasionally called foliole, in botany is a leaf-like part of a compound leaf. Though it resembles an entire leaf, a leaflet is not borne on a main plant stem or branch, as a leaf is, but rather on a petiole or a branch of the leaf.
And these are the feathery needles of the bald cypress tree, a deciduous conifer. Though it’s native to swampy conditions, the bald cypress is also able to withstand dry, sunny weather and is hardy in USDA climate zones 5 through 10. These trees do so well here at the farm.
Each pot is laid out with a small layer of soil ready for the tree and backfill. The crew has devised an efficient production line process for potting massive amounts of trees. Each bare root cutting is placed into an appropriately sized pot. The root section should fit into the pot without bing crowded at the bottom.
Healthy bare root trees get off to a more vigorous start because their abundant, fibrous roots have already had a chance to develop unrestricted. The tree is placed at the same level it was grown by the nursery – where the roots start and the top shoots begin. If it’s in good condition, the plant should sprout leaves in the same year it is planted. If planted in spring, a bare root plant should have leaves by summer.
The soil is then gently filled in around the roots, but not packed too tightly. The important thing is to keep the soil moist. Matthew then pats the soil gently around the roots to ensure good contact.
As each tree is potted, it is placed in a row with all like specimens and the appropriate marker. Some of these have leaves, but most do not. Bare-root cuttings are difficult to identify when there are no leaves, so it is important to keep them separated by cultivar and always properly marked.
While here, these trees will be watered and fed until they are more developed. I already have some ideas where these trees will go. Follow this blog and see where…
My living maze is getting more "a-mazing" with each row of plantings.
I started this three-acre maze in the spring of 2022. I designed the maze with a variety of interesting trees, hedges, espaliers, and shrubs that would all grow tall enough to prevent walkers from seeing the paths ahead. Each row would branch off with pathway options and dead ends - with only one correct route to the center. So far I've planted European beech, European hornbeams, boxwood, parrotias, espaliered apple trees, American sweetgums, barberry, London planetrees, yews, hollies, and camperdown elms. This week, we added more privets and hornbeams.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
My crew has been working very hard to clear the designated paths for more maze planting. This living maze is developing so nicely.
Planting any row of specimens always starts with a carefully measured line. The maze is drawn out on a map, so the area is marked according to the map’s specifications.
The next step is to remove the sod from the designated area. This is done with our Classen Pro HSC18 sod cutter. This sod cutter is so easy to maneuver and so sharp, Chhiring finishes one row in just minutes.
The sod cutting machine cuts the sod in two strips, which are then cut and rolled into sections, so they can be removed easily.
This is what the cleared area looks like once all the sod is pulled up. The exposed soil will also be tilled.
These trees are all from Select Horticulture Inc. in nearby Pound Ridge, New York. These are deciduous hornbeams and privets, which are now beginning to leaf out for the season.
All the trees are positioned first before any planting begins. Privets, Ligustrum ovalifolium, are also known as Korean privet, California privet, garden privet, and oval-leaved privet. It is a species of flowering plant in the olive family native to Japan and Korea. It is a dense, fast-growing, evergreen shrub or small tree.
The leaves of the privet are elliptic-ovate, glossy, dark green and about two and a half inches long.
Then the digging begins. Remember the rule of thumb for planting – dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the height of the root ball.
Using a Hori Hori knife, Arnold makes the necessary root ball cuts to stimulate and encourage root growth.
Now the first privet is in place.
All these are in good condition, but we always position plantings with the best side facing inward toward the walking path. Alex steps back to check that the privet is straight and facing the right direction.
Once the specimen is positioned correctly, it is backfilled. A good tip is to “plant bare to the flare,” meaning do not bury the tree above its flare, where the first main roots attach to the trunk. Tree roots need oxygen to grow. By placing the root flare at or slightly above ground level when planting gives the tree the best chance for survival, growth, and development.
We always save all the plastic pots for future use. This is one of my favorite ways to repurpose. These pots come in so handy.
Meanwhile, the smaller hornbeams are also planted. This one is placed near the hole to check it for proper size. The hole is also sprinkled with fertilizer specially made for transplanting.
Hornbeams are often confused with the common beech because of their similar leaves; however, the hornbeam leaves are actually smaller and more deeply furrowed than beech leaves. The leaves are deciduous and alternate, with serrated margins.
As with all trees and plants, whenever it is transplanted, the root ball is scarified.
The tree is placed into its designated hole and then turned so its best side faces the path. The hole is carefully backfilled in the same way as the privets.
Finally, every newly planted row is raked neatly and watered.
European hornbeams, Carpinus betulus, are fast-growing. In fact, it can grow about four to five feet per year. It is native to Western Asia and central, eastern and southern Europe, including southern England. Because of its dense foliage and tolerance to being cut back, this hornbeam is popularly used for hedges and topiaries.
And here are the newly planted privets. One can see that they are all equally spaced. They will eventually grow into a nice thick hedge also, making a wall in the maze. When fully mature, these privets will grow 10 to 15 feet tall. The maze will take some time before it is complete, but I am so pleased with how well it is turning out. It gets more interesting – and more confusing – with each row of plantings.
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