There's never a dull moment here at my Bedford, New York farm. Not only does my outdoor grounds crew work hard to maintain the property, but they also keep on top of any repairs that need attention.
Recently, my Fell pony, Banchunch, accidentally broke the hay manger out in his paddock. He was rubbing against the side to soothe an itch when all of a sudden the wooden stand collapsed and broke. Fortunately, Pete Sherpa, who has worked here at my farm for many years, is an excellent carpenter and was able to fix the manger quickly - and now it's stronger than ever.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Horses often back up to fences or other objects to rub their rumps, hips, and tails. On this day, Banchunch rubbed a little too hard on the hay rack and the stand fell apart. Some of the wood was already timeworn and in need of replacing, so Pete took on the task right away.
The manger, hay feeder, or hay rack is wooden or metal structure for feeding domestic livestock such as cattle, horses, and goats. This one is made of galvanized steel, but I had custom stands made for all my hay feeders for easier access. Pete took the manger up to our wood shop and removed the remaining broken pieces.
Here is one side of the stand that needs replacing. Luckily, we always save wood from other projects, so Pete had everything he needed for this job.
One of the most important rules in carpentry is to double-check one’s measurements for accuracy before cutting a piece of wood. Here, Pete makes sure he cuts the wood to match the existing pieces of the stand.
I have all the necessary tools to do most tasks here at the farm. Pete uses this circular table saw to cut the cedar 2 x 4 and miter its ends.
And then he measures again to ensure it’s perfect – and it is.
Next, he makes pilot holes for the large screws he will use to keep the pieces secure and “Banchunch” proof.
Longer leg pieces are measured and cut.
The stand is coming together pretty quickly, but Pete wants to make it extra durable.
Here, Pete measures wood for a center piece half way down the side.
This piece will give it more stability. Pete makes sure it is straight before attaching it to the existing pieces.
One side down and one more to go.
Pete secures the newly built side to the manger using three inch screws.
Here is a view from the top.
Then he uses four inch bolts with matching washers and nuts to make it even stronger. Both sides are now attached to the manger.
Pete stops for a quick photo. The hay feeder is almost done.
Next, he measures a piece to secure across the bottom so the two sides are also connected.
Finally, Fernando, who is our resident painting expert, paints the entire piece my signature “Bedford Gray.”
Fernando applies two good coats of paint. The stand will dry overnight in the wood shop.
Early the next morning, Dawa and Pete return the manger to the paddock.
This stand looks as good as new, and should now last several years. Thanks Pete and Fernando!
It’s the start of a very special time of year for the peafowl at my Bedford, New York farm - it's the beginning of breeding season.
From late February until early August, the peacocks display their stunning and iridescent tail feathers, strut back and forth shaking their feathers and hindquarters to produce a rattling sound, and make loud calls to the females. The peahens tend to choose males with the longest, most colorful tails. It’s always very interesting to watch these mating rituals up close - the "tail show" can be quite amazing. Many of you comment on how much you enjoy the posts on the animals at my farm, so I thought it was a good time to share this update on my gorgeous birds.
Enjoy these photos.
Every afternoon, after the dogs are let out for some morning exercise, my peafowl are released from their pen to roam the farm. They love to congregate in my stable courtyard and watch all the activities. Here, one of my peacocks is fanning its gorgeous tail in competition for the females during breeding season. One can see the eyespots on this mature male’s tail feathers.
Peafowl are members of the pheasant family. There are two Asiatic species – the blue or Indian peafowl native to India and Sri Lanka, and the green peafowl originally from Java and Burma, and one African species, the Congo peafowl from African rain forests. All my peafowl are Indian.
All peacocks and peahens will look you in the eye, but if you stare at them or seem aggressive in body movements, they will feel threatened. I love how friendly all my peacocks and peahens are with people.
Researchers found that the longer the train feathers, the faster the males would shake them during true courtship displays, perhaps to demonstrate muscular strength.
This is one of my peahens. Peahens usually weigh about six to nine pounds when full grown. They are also more dull in color compared to the males.
Peacocks and peahens are very smart, docile and adaptable birds. They are also quite clever and very curious.
During the mating dance, the peacock turns in circles showing off his tail. This display is known as “train-rattling.” The stiff rear feathers underlie the front feathers and provide support when the whole tail is raised.
Here is another male un-phased by his friend’s mating dance. As beautiful as peafowls are, they don’t make very melodious sounds. Peafowls have 11 different calls, with most of the vocalizing made by the peacocks. And, with their sharp eyesight, peafowls are quick to see predators and call out alarms. Oftentimes, I can hear them all the way from my Winter House. And every time I call out to them, they respond.
This peacock is trying hard to attract the peahens – he has been “train-rattling” for at least 10-minutes. Peacocks have their full length tail feathers once they are at least three years of age. Peahens usually choose males that have bigger, healthier plumage with an abundance of eyespots.
Unfortunately, none of the peahens seemed interested at this time. They prefer to nap under the winter sun.
But this male is persistent – here he goes around again. After breeding season ends in August, the males lose their long tail feathers and then grow them all back before the next breeding season begins. The train gets longer and more elaborate until five or six years old when it reaches maximum splendor.
While these birds are ground feeders and ground nesters, they still enjoy roosting at higher levels. In the wild, this keeps them safe from predators at night. They look for perching spots all over the farm. These birds are resting on a burlap covered bird bath outside the stable offices.
Peafowl are beautiful – especially the males with their long tails, but do not underestimate their power. These birds are extremely strong with very sharp spurs. Full-grown, peacocks can weigh up to 13-pounds.
Both male and female peafowl have the fancy crest atop their heads called a corona.
Because most of these birds have grown up here, they are all very accustomed to the crew and always love visitors. Many of them come right up to sniff pockets for any treats.
For food, these birds get a healthy mix of cornmeal, soybean, and wheat. I also feed the birds spinach, cabbage, and squash. In the wild, peacocks are omnivores – they eat insects, plants, and small creatures. They do most of their foraging in the early morning and evening.
Peafowls very hardy birds, and even though they are native to warm climates, they do very well in cold weather as long as they have access to dry areas away from strong winds. These birds will spend most of their days outdoors, and nights in their coop where it is warm and cozy.
Meanwhile, Dawa works in the peafowl coop to freshen the nesting boxes for the peahens.
One is already eager to check out the space.
Soon two are interested to try it out.
A peahen will usually lay about three to eight brown eggs. It takes about 28 to 30 days for the eggs to incubate before hatching. I prefer to keep them in a mechanical unit until they hatch, so they are safe from all the other birds. Then they remain in a brooder until they are big enough to join the others. I wonder how many peachicks we’ll have this season. stay tuned…
I am very fortunate to have large greenhouses where I can force many bulbs and enjoy their blooms earlier than their time.
Forcing is the process of tricking bulbs to bloom out of season indoors by providing them with favorable growing conditions. Last month, my head gardener, Ryan McCallister, potted up amaryllis bulbs in soil, which will erupt with large trumpet-shaped blooms later this season. He also potted up a collection of Eucomis, commonly known as the pineapple lily. This South African native has a very interesting flower stalk that is reminiscent of the delicious fruit. These plants will show off a beautiful indoor display in weeks.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
Eucomis, or pineapple lily, is a bulbous species of flowering plant in the family Asparagaceae. Eucomis grow wonderfully in containers and can easily be potted up and forced indoors as long as they have ample light.
These bulbs can be separated and planted in smaller groups in their pots.
For these bulbs, Ryan chose to use these clay pots made by master potter, Guy Wolff. Guy makes all of them himself – they are just stunning.
He stamps the year the pot was made on the side. And, usually he stamps my name, or Cantitoe, the name of my farm above it.
We store many of the empty pots underneath the greenhouse tables where they can be accessed quickly. Clay and terra cotta containers can be stored anywhere where the temperatures will not fall below freezing. Stack pots upside down so that water doesn’t pool in them.
As with all our pots, the drainage holes are covered with shards on the inside to help drainage and to keep the soil from leaking out. We save all the shards from broken clay pots for this purpose.
Ryan uses a potting mix that includes perlite and vermiculite for good drainage. Any all-purpose potting mix blends can be used, as long as it drains well.
We also add Scott’s Osmocote fertilizer – small, round coated prills filled with nutrients. One can find Osmocote on Martha.com.
Here, Ryan mixes it right into the soil – they are the yellow prills. These prills coat a core of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The resin-coating is made from linseed oil and as the plant’s root system takes-up nutrition from the soil, it also takes up the needed nutrients from the Osmocote.
Ryan fills the pot with soil leaving a hole a few inches deep for the bulb.
Ryan fills several pots at a time – this mix is very light and easy to scoop in a production line process.
Pineapple lilies growing in pots don’t need to be planted as deeply as those in the ground; they need to sink only about three inches.
The right amount of light will urge this tropical beauty to bloom. And when it does, several flower stems will send up spikes of star-shaped blossoms. The flowers that grow should last about two months.
Flower, stem, and leaf colors vary. Sometimes leaves and stems have spots or edging of a darker color.
Eucomis feature a basal rosette of strap-shaped, linear, wavy-edged, dark green leaves which spread upward and outward up to to 24-inches.
Here is one Eucomis potted up with its long green leaves.
Here they are this week – already growing quite nicely. When choosing a location, try to find a spot that gets about six hours of sunlight each day.
The warmer the temperature the faster Eucomis will flower. Planting bulbs in the greenhouse to be forced in January should produce spring flowers. Outdoors, Eucomis usually bloom July to September.
As the flower stalks form the blooms will open from the bottom up. The upright flower stems will be sturdy enough to hold up heavy flower heads and won’t need staking.
And remember all the potted amaryllis bulbs in this corner of the greenhouse? A few are already starting to show off their gorgeous colors. I will be sure to share more photos of these plants once in full bloom.
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