Potting and planting hundreds of trees at the farm is a huge, yet exciting undertaking.
I love trees, and every year I plant hundreds, sometimes thousands. Trees are crucial to the environment. They provide food, protection, and homes to scores of birds and mammals. They also help combat climate change and release oxygen for all of us to live. This week, we received a shipment of bare-root cuttings from Musser Forests, Inc., a Pennsylvania-based company specializing in conifer and hardwood seedlings and transplants. Bare-root trees are so named because the plants are dug from the ground while dormant, and stored without any soil surrounding their roots. Once the young specimens arrived, my gardeners and outdoor grounds crew placed them in tubs to soak overnight and then hurried to pot them the next day in nutrient-filled composted soil made right here at the farm.
Here are some photos - enjoy.
Here is the area behind my stable where I keep my potted tree saplings. I like this spot, so they can be closely monitored and well-watered when needed.
Since I plant so many trees, I get most of them in the form of bare-root cuttings. Bare-root plants should not have any mold or mildew. The cuttings should also feel heavy. If they feel light and dried out then the plant probably will not grow.
We always pot bare-root cuttings in individual containers. The trees will only remain in these pots temporarily – eventually, they will be transplanted in various locations around the farm. We save pots whenever we can – they always come in handy for projects like this, and I always encourage the crew to reuse supplies whenever possible.
We use composted manure and top soil for potting our cuttings. Composting manure above 131-degrees Fahrenheit for at least a couple weeks kill harmful pathogens, dilute ammonia, stabilize nitrogen, kill weed seeds and reduce any objectionable odors. I am so proud of the nutrient-rich soil we make. Chhiring brings loads of it from the back compost field using our Kubota M4-071 tractor. It’s designed to use auxiliary equipment such as the L1154 front loader that helps us transport so many things around the farm.
Once a good mound of compost is unloaded, it is amended with some good fertilizer and then mixed well.
Each bare-root cutting is placed into an appropriately sized pot. The root section should fit into the pot without bing crowded at the bottom. Healthy bare-root trees get off to a more vigorous start because their abundant, roots have already had a chance to develop unrestricted.
Each pot is prepared with a small layer of soil ready for the tree and backfill. Pasang plants each specimen carefully, so it is straight and centered in the container.
Here he tamps down lightly after the pot is backfilled so there is good contact between the tree roots and the surrounding soil. Each tree is placed at the same level it was grown by the nursery – where the roots start and the top shoots begin.
As each tree is potted, it is placed in a row with all like specimens.
In order to get all the seedlings potted as quickly as possible, it was “all hands on deck.” The crew created a very productive assembly line. While Pasang prepares the bare-root cutting, Domi fills the pot, and then Chhiring, in the back, moves groups of bare-root trees to their designated spot.
Some of the trees we’re potting include Picea omorika, also known by the common name Serbian spruce – a species of coniferous tree endemic to the Drina River valley in western Serbia, and eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Black Hills spruce is a naturally symmetrical cone-shaped conifer with a dense, compact habit, and bright blue-green foliage when mature.
Gold Thread Cypress is an evergreen shrub with striking yellow foliage. It holds its stunning golden color all throughout the year.
Golden barberry has bright solid yellow foliage year-round and is compact, adaptable, and very hardy. I have golden barberry growing on my terrace parterre.
These are the roots of Shumard Oak trees. The Shumard Oak, Quercus shumardii, is a stately tree with beautiful fall color. It is one of the largest of the oak species in the red oak group and can grow 50 to 90 feet tall.
Weed cloth is placed under the pots to keep everything neat and tidy. Most of these bare-root cuttings do not have leaves, so they are difficult to identify. It is important to keep them separated by cultivar and always properly marked. Buttonbush is a shrub with glossy green leaves and fragrant, round flower clusters during mid-summer. Native to the Chicago area and the eastern United States, buttonbush attracts many species of birds and butterflies.
These evergreens will do so nicely in these pots until they are ready to be transplanted in their permanent locations.
Chhiring adds a top-dressing of mulch to the pots.
And then pats it down neatly.
On the other side of this area, Phurba checks on the existing bare-root trees already in pots and growing well. He cleans the aisles and makes sure each plant has enough soil.
Our trusted STIHL battery-powered blower is nearby and used to blow any leaves and debris in between the pots. The crew uses this blower every day – it’s great for blowing leaves and other debris off the terraces and footpaths around my home.
By late afternoon, hundreds of bare-root cuttings are potted and carefully arranged. I am confident these trees will thrive in these pots and be in excellent condition when it is time to plant them in their more permanent locations around the farm. April 22nd is Earth Day – I hope you’ll consider planting a tree to celebrate. This year, the theme is “invest in our planet.”
Every year, I always plant a collection of interesting and beautiful trees. It is such a joy to watch the gardens, groves, and allées evolve and expand around my Bedford, New York farm.
If you follow my Instagram page @MarthaStewart48, you may know I recently purchased several Cercis canadensis 'Merlot' trees, or eastern redbuds - the state tree of Oklahoma. I bought them while on a business trip in Tulsa from Stringer Nursery, the city's oldest garden center. These trees are native to eastern North America and will do just fine planted at the edge of my Japanese Maple Woodland where a few others have thrived for years.
Enjoy these photos.
Cercis canadensis ‘Merlot’ displays lovely pea-like bright pink flowers held in clusters that cover the tree’s bare branches in spring before the foliage emerges.
Then, the tree shows off small, heart-shaped shiny wine-red leaves through summer. The leaves of this young specimen are still small, but when the tree is mature, the leaves will be about two to five inches long.
Phurba digs the appropriate sized hole for the redbud tree. A crucial step in growing healthy trees is to plant them at the proper depth. Planting a tree too deep can kill it. Plant it only at its flare – the bulge just above the root system where the roots begin to branch away from the trunk. Digging a wide planting hole helps to provide the best opportunity for roots to expand into its new growing environment.
Phurba sprinkles a generous amount of fertilizer into the hole and the surrounding soil. This fertilizer contains endo- and ecto mycorrhizae to help promote faster establishment, deeper roots, and superior soil structure. It is very important to feed the plants and trees, especially when they are transplanted.
Next, Phurba scarifies the roots of the tree. Scarifying stimulates root growth. Essentially, Phurba breaks up small portions of the root ball to loosen the roots a bit and create some beneficial injuries. This helps the plant become established more quickly in its new spot.
The tree is placed into the hole and then checked to be sure it is at the right depth.
Phurba also makes sure the tree is straight and its best side is facing the carriage road. The eastern redbud is a compact deciduous tree with an upright, dense, vase-shaped growing habit when mature. It grows best in full sun to partial shade where it can get at least six hours of good light per day. It also prefers well-drained soil with consistent moisture.
Finally, the hole is backfilled and tamped down lightly to establish good contact between the soil and the plant root ball. The area is then groomed with a soft rake, so the soil is neat and tidy around the tree.
Each of my four new redbud trees is also staked with tall bamboo. Phurba makes sure the stake is secured into the soil at least a couple feet deep.
Brian follows up with twine to secure the bamboo to the tree. Notice how the twine is tied – I always teach every member of the crew to twist the twine before knotting, so the tree or vine or cane is not crushed or strangled.
I like to tie the twine in a figure-eight formation. Each piece is tied just tight enough to keep the tree secure, but not break it.
The bark of the eastern redbud starts smooth and brown. Later, it will be ridged and furrowed to scaly and dark gray.
But notice how the stem grows – in a zig-zag alternating growth pattern.
I can’t wait to see all of these trees flourish. I hope this inspires you to go out this weekend and enjoy some of the trees near your home, or plant a tree in your backyard.
Below the trees is a carpet of native marsh marigold foliage. The leaves are slightly toothed and kidney-shaped. From a distance, they appear round, but each one has a deep cut where the stem attaches at the bottom of the leaf.
The flowers of marsh marigold are yellow. Marsh marigold is a perennial herb in the buttercup family, also known as cowslip, cowflock, or kingcup.
And look what else is growing here – galanthus, or snowdrop. These plants have two wing-like linear leaves and a single small white drooping bell-shaped flower with six petal-like tepals in two circles. The smaller inner petals have green markings.
Nearby is a swath of blue – a grouping of naturalized Siberian squill. Native to Russia, these plants grow to about four to eight inches tall, but they make up for their diminutive size by spreading out and blooming profusely. We planted a lot of squill here last fall.
There are also patches of bold green daffodil foliage. The daffodils are growing so beautifully this season.
They are beginning to open everywhere. I will be sure to share lots of photos of the daffodils all around the farm when they’re all in bloom. Spring is definitely here.
This time of year, anyone who walks around my Bedford, New York farm always admires the beautiful hellebore flowers.
Hellebores come in such an artful array of colors, markings and formations, it’s hard not to love these fascinating perennials. Sometimes known as Lenten rose or Christmas rose, these plants are long-lived, easy-to-grow and thrive in shady locations. I’ve had hellebores in my gardens for many years, and I find it so rewarding to have blooms that start in March, and continue through spring until the end of May - to me, hellebores are must-haves for any gardener's collection.
Here are some photos of the hellebores blooming at my farm now, enjoy.
Hellebores are members of the Eurasian genus Helleborus – about 20 species of evergreen perennial flowering plants in the family Ranunculaceae. They blossom during late winter and early spring for up to three months. I have many hellebores planted around my farm.
Hellebores are widely grown for decorative purposes because they are easy-to-grow and are able to resist frost. It is common to plant them on slopes or in raised beds in order to see their flowers, which tend to nod.
These plants are best grown in organically rich, humusy, well-drained soils in part to full shade.
The bright green foliage looks so dramatic against the colors of their blooms.
After the first year, when the plant is well-established, hellebores are very resistant and require little upkeep.
Hellebores can reach up to 36 inches in height and width, so be sure to position hellebores in protected areas away from winter winds.
Here is a hellebore just about to open.
The leaves of most hellebores are leathery, shiny, and edged with shallow teeth.
Hellebore flowers come in pretty much any color ranging from pink to red hues, shades of green, white and yellow, apricot and even deep purple.
All parts of the hellebore plant are poisonous, including the seeds, so use caution when considering planting location. Hellebores are also deer and vole resistant.
Hellebores benefit from a moderate amount of watering. They like to be watered deeply enough to saturate the root zone but then not watered again until the soil feels dry to the touch. These plants are drought tolerant but quite sensitive to soggy soil.
Unlike the blooms of most other flowering plants, hellebore flowers do not consist of petals, but of sepals, which serve to protect the flower.
Here, one can see the stamens and the carpels – the delicate parts shielded by the sepals.
This hellebore has dark colored edges and well-veined undersides.
Hellebores also come in many varieties, from veined or picotee, and single, anemone or double flowers.
This single flowering hellebore variety is deep purple in color with burgundy leaves.
The stamens are long white filaments with bilocular anthers. Each flower can have many stamens.
Hellebores produce nectar to attract the few insects that are active at the time of year when hellebores flower.
These plants are not choosy about their insects, so all types can pollinate the flowers effectively.
Given the right conditions, hellebores will spread nicely in the garden and look beautiful through the season. Wherever you live, I hope you are able to enjoy some of the colors of spring.
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