Sharpening Garden Pruners and Shears
I always like things clean, organized, and in good working condition - it's a standard I try to impress upon everyone who works with me at my farm, especially when it comes to our valuable tools.
Sharp pruning tools not only make chores easier to complete, but they also make cleaner cuts, which allow plants to heal faster. Making clean cuts also exposes them to less damage from diseases, insects, fungi, and weather extremes. My gardeners and outdoor grounds crew use their tools all year long, so it is important to keep them well maintained. Each member cleans, sharpens, and conditions their pruners, snips, and shears regularly. The process only takes a few minutes, and it keeps these gardening implements in proper working order.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
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- Pruners are among the most essential tools here at my Bedford, New York farm. Pruners, or secateurs, are used for grooming all the garden specimens. Their primary purpose is to remove dead, diseased, or damaged stems, and branches from plants and bushes.
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- Here, Phurba uses Japanese hedge shears to groom the boxwood shrubs. I prefer hand held tools – it’s a slower process, but they make cleaner, neater, more detailed cuts compared to powered versions.
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- And here is Pasang pruning and grooming the European beech trees, Fagus sylvatica, that line both the east and west sides of the South Paddock as well as the west side of what I call the Southeast Paddock.
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- In order to do the jobs best, it is important to keep all our shears and various snips as sharp as can be. Every few days my gardeners take stock of their cutting tools and clean and sharpen whatever is needed. Here, Brian shows the tools before they are cleaned and sharpened.
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- We all like to use Okatsune secateurs. Bypass garden pruners such as these make nice, clean cuts using two curved blades that bypass each other in the same manner as a pair of scissors. One blade is sharpened on the outside edge and slips by a thicker unsharpened blade. Pruners can cut branches and twigs up to ¾ of an inch thick.
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- For this task, Brian uses a coarse cleaning block and a whetstone. Both are soaked in water for about 10-minutes before using. This makes both blocks work more efficiently. A whetstone will help keep the pores of the stone clean, dissipate frictional heat, and ensures smooth sharpening.
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- This larger block is also soaking in tepid water. This piece is helpful for longer blades.
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- Brian uses the cleaning block to remove any dirt, sap, etc.. This cleaning block has a slightly rough texture for removing grime from the blades. Cleaning blocks are great for removing rust and other debris. They’re made of a semi flexible rubber compound with abrasive grits for scouring. Brian goes over every part of both blades. One can also use a medium grit sandpaper.
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- It is important to also get all the dirt off the metal parts – anything left on tools can attract and hold moisture and cause rust.
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- Brian closes the pruners and goes over the blades again.
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- Brian stops to wipe the blades dry every so often. This allows him to inspect the cleaning he has done and to see how much more is needed.
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- Next, Brian uses the whetstone to sharpen the blade. Brian holds the pruners firmly and places an even and gentle pressure drawing the stone along the blade from hilt to tip.
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- Here’s another view. Most secateurs are single bevelled – Brian sharpens the outside, and then smooths off the inside, going slightly over the edge.
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- These blades are now very sharp. To test, Brian carefully rubs the blade against his nail. If it bites in, it is sharp. One can also use the side of a pen or pencil.
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- Next, Brian lightly lubricates all the clean, sharpened metal parts. Oil will help the pruners perform more smoothly. One can use multi-purpose oil from the hardware store. Brian uses oil from the seeds of Camellia oleifera. This oil is the traditional Japanese choice for protecting tools from rust. This oil leaves a deep, non-oily, and odorless finish. It is available online or at various gardening shops.
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- Brian does the same process for this pair – first, he uses the cleaning block… My greenhouse cat, Blackie, is always curious and loves to sit close and watch.
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- … then the whetstone…
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- Brian holds the whetstone at an angle to sharpen the edges and maintain the bevel. The bevel is what makes a tool sharp. The blades are factory ground to a precise angle that’s just right for each tool.
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- For these snips, Brian uses the larger block, which can cover more blade surface with less strokes.
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- And he also uses it for the long hedge shears.
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- This block is one piece, with the darker cleaning section on one side and the sharpening whetstone on the other. Cleaning and sharpening supplies are available at many garden shops and online.
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- Once again, Brian tests the sharpness of the blade against his nail.
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- And then oils the entire piece. Here, he also oils the joint where the two sides meet. After oiling, it is a good idea to open and close the pruners to hear how the parts move together – they should work smoothly, quietly, and evenly.
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- All the tools are now ready to head back out to the gardens. It is crucial to keep these garden tools sharp at all times. Sharp pruners for working in the gardens… it’s a very safe, efficient, “good thing.”
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