Forcing Amaryllis Bulbs
One doesn't have to wait until spring to enjoy the fragrance and beauty of springtime blooms - just force some bulbs indoors.
Forcing is the process of speeding up a bulb’s development by simulating the conditions of winter and spring - it's a way of fooling Mother Nature and tricking the bulb to bloom before its natural time. This week, my head gardener, Ryan McCallister, planted two separate containers of amaryllis bulbs, which will erupt with magnificent trumpet-shaped blooms and a mild, sweet and delicate scent later this season.
Enjoy these photos.
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- These ‘Sovereign’ amaryllis bulbs from Colorblends Wholesale Flower Bulbs in Bridgeport, Connecticut are in excellent condition. They are plump, well-rounded, and free from any soft spots, or discoloration. When in bloom, the flowers will be large, orange-red, and borne on sturdy stems.
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- Some of you may remember the gorgeous trumpet amaryllis blooms I have forced in previous years. I love to bring them into my Winter House as soon as they open. Of all flowering bulbs, amaryllis are the easiest to bring to bloom. This flower originated in South Africa and comes in many beautiful varieties.
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- The genus Amaryllis comes from the Greek word amarysso, which means “to sparkle.” Amaryllis flowers range from four to 10 inches in size and can be either single or double in form.
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- While the most popular colors are red and white, flowers may also be pink, salmon, apricot, rose or deep burgundy, and some unique striped varieties.
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- When forcing, any waterproof container can be used – just be sure there is about four-inches of space below the bulbs to accommodate root growth. I selected two pan sized planters made by master potter, Ben Wolff. Ben and his father, Guy, create gorgeous pots by hand on traditional potter’s wheels. I have the largest personal collection of Wolff pottery ever known.
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- Each pot has a drainage hole at the bottom. This is critical, so water can easily drain and adequate air can reach the roots.
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- As with all our pots, the drainage holes are covered with shards on the inside to help drainage and to keep the soil from leaking out. We save all the shards from broken clay pots for this purpose.
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- Ryan uses a potting mix that includes perlite and vermiculite for good drainage.
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- He fills the pot to just under the rim with the potting mix.
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- He also adds a generous amount of Miracle-Gro Osmocote fertilizer – small, round, yellow coated prills covering a core of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
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- Then Ryan positions the first bulb keeping the top third of it sticking up above the soil level.
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- When planting more than one in a container, be sure there is at least an inch between the bulb sides and the rim of the vessel.
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- Amaryllis bulbs usually measure about three to six inches across.
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- The key to amaryllis forcing indoors is the temperature. The best, most rapid growth will occur if the container is in a room that is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
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- These pots are big enough to accommodate three bulbs each, so Ryan positions the third in each pot.
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- A little more soil potting mix is added. Once positioned properly, Ryan gently packs the potting mix down to anchor the bulbs.
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- Here, Ryan adds some pea gravel as top dressing. This gravel will also help to anchor the heavy amaryllis stems as they grow.
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- Here is a view of three planted amaryllis bulbs from above – all equally spaced and ready to water.
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- Ryan gives each pot an initial drink. When forcing, be sure to keep the soil moist but not wet. Water only when the top inch or two of the potting mix is dry to the touch.
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- For now, these pots will stay on my head house windowsill where they can get bright, indirect light. And in six to eight weeks, I should have beautiful large colorful blooms atop 12- to 24-inch straight stems. I can’t wait.
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