Planting European Hornbeams and Parrotias in My Maze

October 20, 2023

Planting European Hornbeams and Parrotias in My Maze

British horticulturist Gertrude Jekyll once said, “A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfulness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all it teaches entire trust.” Here at my Bedford, New York farm, we've all had to be very patient and careful in planting my new living maze. It's taking lots of time and hard work to create, but now it is about a third complete and it's looking better and better with each new row.

I started this maze a year and a half ago. I wanted to create a maze of mixed hedges, espaliers, and shrubs in the pasture across the carriage road from my Winter House terrace. I started with European beech, European hornbeams, boxwood, and espaliered apple trees. I designed the maze with various plantings to add texture and interest. Each row includes pathway options and dead ends - with only one correct route to the center. It's all meticulously planned on a map, and each week, we add another group of specimens.

Here are some of the latest photos, enjoy.

: Remember this view looking north through the pasture? The fenced in apple trees are original to my farm. Beyond, one can see my long Boxwood Allée and the chicken coops. On the left is my stable. This three acre parcel is now home to my maze. I chose this paddock located just outside my Winter House, where I could see it from my terrace parterre. I knew it was the perfect space for this garden of trees and shrubs.

: In April of 2022, we planted the first rows. They included European beech, European hornbeam, boxwood, and a variety of espaliered apple trees.

: For a maze, it’s best to use relatively fast-growing trees that will be at least six feet tall and two feet wide at maturity.

: Every few weeks, we add a new row to the maze. Each row is carefully measured according to a map we have for the entire maze.

: Earlier this summer, we planted this row of privets. Look at the foreground – still quite a lot of room to fill.

: But look, earlier this week we filled in most of the area. One can see the privets behind this newest grouping of European hornbeams.

: Every row starts off with a careful measurement of the intended planting space.

: Then Chhiring goes over the same lines with our Classen Pro HSC18 sod cutter. The sod cutter goes over the lines smoothly and deeply.

: The sod is removed in sections by hand. I never like to waste anything around the farm. I always try to repurpose and reuse as much as possible, so the sections are replanted in grassy areas that have gotten bare over time.

: Here is the new cleared out area for the next grouping of specimens – this week, hornbeams and parrotias.

: Next, we tilled the soil with our Troy-Bilt Pony Rear-Tine Tiller. Rototilling is one method of turning up the soil before planting. All the plants and trees do very well here at the farm, in part because of the excellent soil. I have worked very hard to ensure my soil is constantly amended and rich with nutrients. If you are unsure of your soil’s quality, have it tested. Kits are available at garden shops, online, and through your area’s cooperative extensions.

: These are European hornbeams. Botanically known as Carpinus betulus, the hornbeam is a fast-growing deciduous tree. In fact, it can grow about four to five feet per year. It is native to Western Asia and central, eastern and southern Europe, including southern England. Because of its dense foliage and tolerance to being cut back, this hornbeam is popularly used for hedges and topiaries.

: Hornbeams are often confused with the common beech because of their similar leaves; however, the hornbeam leaves are actually smaller and more deeply furrowed than beech leaves. The leaves are deciduous and alternate, with serrated margins.

: Then, each hole is dug. Remember the rule of thumb for planting trees – dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the height of the root ball.

: I always say, “if you eat, so should your plants.” For all of these, we’re using a fertilizer with mycorrhizal fungi, which helps transplant survival and increases water and nutrient absorption.

: All the burlap wrapping and any twine are removed from the root balls. Some leave them in the ground, but I prefer to remove them completely, so there is nothing blocking the growing roots.

: The tree is placed into its designated hole and then turned so its best side faces the path.

: Next, the hole is carefully backfilled. Another rule of thumb is “bare to the flare” meaning only plant up to the flare, where the tree meets the root system.

: Here is the row all planted – every tree lined up straight.

: These smaller trees are young parrotias. Parrotia persica is in the family Hamamelidaceae, closely related to the witch-hazel genus Hamamelis. It is native to northern Iran and southern Azerbaijan and it is endemic in the Alborz mountains. It grows best in USDA Zones 5 to 8.

: Some of the leaves are already changing colors. Parrotias have a long-lasting, elaborate autumn color display of ever-changing leaves that show off yellow, orange, burgundy and red hues.