Attending "Chefs x Breeders: A Dinner from the Ground Up"
As many of you know, I am a very passionate gardener. I love growing my own fruits and vegetables, trying new and rare seeds, and learning how others practice sustainable agriculture.
Recently, I attended a wonderful and most inspiring dinner highlighting flavorful, disease-resistant produce prepared by some of New York’s finest chefs. The event was called “Chefs x Breeders: A Dinner from the Ground Up”. It promoted the work of Row 7, a company co-founded by renowned chef, Dan Barber, along with vegetable breeder, Michael Mazourek, and seedsman, Matthew Goldfarb, that focuses on developing flavor-optimized seed varieties. 300-guests were invited to try dishes prepared by master chefs, such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Dan Kluger, Christian Puglisi, Heinz Reitbauer, Ana Sortun, Alex Stupak, Daniela Soto-Innes, and Daniel Humm - each using one of the new, and experimental vegetables. It was an exceptional event and one that I hope pushes forward the conversation of seed conservation and innovation.
Here are some photos - enjoy.
Here I am by one of the art installations made by floral designer, Emily Thompson. She created this large arrangement using quince, forsythia, weeping willow, and lichen-covered mountain laurel. https://emilythompsonflowers.com/
The event was held in Brooklyn, New York at Pioneer Works, owned by artist, Dustin Yellin. The three-story red brick building was built in 1866 for what was then Pioneer Iron Works. The factory, which manufactured railroad tracks and other large-scale machinery, was a local landmark. Guests were invited to sit at long tables set up in rows to maximize conversation.
Here is a view from above – the centerpieces allowed guests to “forage” for their first course. Place cards were made using natural fallen leaves. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
Here is the menu featuring watercolors by artist, Leanne Shapton.
Here is another art piece by Emily Thompson showing various root systems – everything was tied to the importance of growing good, disease-resistant, delicious vegetables. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
A large screen showed the actual preparation of the food in the kitchen.
I was able to step into the back kitchen to see everyone at work. So many notable chefs collaborating on the use of these new and innovative vegetables grown from seed specifically for flavor rather than considerations like yield and uniformity.
It was great to see such an efficient and professional kitchen staff working together.
Here is the first course – a simple serving of squash roasted to perfection without any added seasonings.
It is called 898 Squash – bred for flavor more than anything else. It was delicious.
Here is Chef Dan Barber overseeing all the activity in the kitchen. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
And here is well-known chef, Christian Puglisi. He was assigned to prepare a dish incorporating Badger Flame Beets, egg yolk, and elderflower. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
Everyone in the dining room watched as their meals were prepared and discussed the future of how we eat, and in turn how we farm. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
This is the dish made by distinguished chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten – roasted, pickled, fermented Badger Flame Beets.
Chef Ana Sortun created this Habanada Pepper, Red Lentil Köfte and feta cheese dish.
Chef Dan Kluger used experimental oats, carrots, and chili for his salad.
The bread course was presented by Pam Young and included Einkhorn sourdough and Barber Wheat sourdough.
And this dish was made by Chef Daniel Humm – a robin’s Koginut squash, with morcilla, quinoa, and apples.
Dessert was by Alex Stupak – naked spelt ice cream, spelt ash cone, spelt brioche croutons, and bitter almond. Everything was so flavorful.
During the dinner, several seed breeders spoke about Row 7 and the innovative practices of developing better, more sustainable foods and educating the public on the benefits of good-for-the-earth seeds.
Here I am with Rita Jammet, owner and ambassador of La Caravelle Champagnes. She is also the mother of Nicolas Jammet, co-founder of Sweetgreens, and Patrick Jammet of Good Culture Cottage Cheese.
It was a very successful gathering of chefs, breeders and those passionate about creating nutritious and delicious seeds. In fact, when tickets were released to the public, Row 7 offered a contest giving tickets to 10 individuals with the most innovative breeding project essays – all winners attended the event. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
Leanne painted with watercolors during the dinner and was viewed via remote video in the gallery. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
Also in attendance was Walter Robb, mentor, advisor and former co-CEO of Whole Foods Market. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
These are Upstate Abundance Potatoes made by Row 7 and bred by W. de Jong. These potatoes are creamy, nutty and buttery, even without adding the butter. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
And here is the Koginut Squash bred by Row 7 co-founder, Michael Mazourek – a hybrid offering sweetness, smooth texture, storability, yield and a built-in ripeness indicator to ensure it’s picked for peak flavor. Each Robin’s Koginut seed sold supports public plant breeding research at Cornell University. The Robin’s Koginut squash was first served at Sweetgreen’s test kitchen in Culver City, California before spreading nationwide. (Photo by Laura Murray for Row 7 Seeds)
For more information on the work of Row 7, its mission, and to see some of the seeds they currently offer, please visit their web site.