Pruning and Tying My Climbing Roses

March 5, 2018

With spring just around the corner, whenever we get a break from the cold winter weather it's always a good time to work in the garden beds to prepare them for the coming planting season.

Not long ago, my gardener, Wilmer, started the task of pruning the rose bushes on the perimeter of my flower garden. Once that was completed, he moved onto the climbing roses, several of which are located on tall tower trellises. All my climbers are thriving because of proper maintenance throughout the year. I can't wait to see them all in full bloom once again.

Enjoy these photos.

: Here are two of my climbing roses during summer. This photo was taken last June – the trellises are so full of robust pink flowers.

: I love how they wrap around the trellises – they are nearly completely covered.

: Here is what the climbing roses looked like just before they were pruned. Roses are aggressive growers, and climbers are some of the most vigorous – capable of growing many feet in a season.

: Climbers always do best when well supported by a trellis or fence – one that is the appropriate height, width, and strength for the climber. It should be strong enough to hold the weight of a full grown rose plant in both wet and windy weather.

: From a stepladder, Wilmer assesses which branches need pruning.

: Main canes on a climbing rose are the ones that grow from the base of the plant. These canes form the structure.

: Laterals are the “side-shoots” that come off the main canes – they bear the flowers. These plant canes were growing in all different directions and needed to be pruned and tied.

: On established plants, prune dead, damaged, and overcrowded canes.

: And always remove the weak canes so that the plant can focus strength into a few strong main canes.

: This cane is dead, but not all “brown” canes are – some are just older and woody. Follow the cane to see whether it all has to be removed or just shortened.

: Wilmer prunes the flowering side shoots to two to three buds above the structural canes during the dormant season.

: Wilmer also checks his work multiple times during the process to ensure he doesn’t miss any canes that need trimming. Another tip: after they finish blooming in summer, prune canes back by one-third to one-half to promote branching and to keep the rambler tidy.

: We use a natural jute twine for all our gardening tying projects.

: When tying, the twine does not have to be tight – just enough to anchor the branch and provide proper guidance as it grows.

: The loop around the plant cane should keep the vine secure, but not break it.

: Knots should be very simple.

: Any hanging twine should be clipped close to the knot to keep it tidy.

: It’s a bit hard to tell, but Wilmer doubles up on his gloves whenever he works with roses – the thorns can be very sharp.

: And always be sure to use a sharp pair of pruners.

: To ensure canes don’t get tied too close together, twist the twine a couple of times before knotting around a vine.

: Don’t worry if you need multiple ties to secure the canes – use as much twine as needed to provide the best support.

: To clamber upwards and reach sunlight, roses that climb take advantage of their thorns’ natural propensity to hook onto anything around them. It is important to train major canes in the direction you want on the armature.