It’s always a good sign of warmer days ahead when my gardeners start working in the flower cutting garden.
Last week, Wilmer started the task of pruning the roses on the perimeter of the garden. Proper pruning improves the health of the plants, prevents disease, and encourages better flowering. There are different pruning strategies for different times of the year, but overall the goals are the same - to control shape, to keep the bushes fresh and open, and to allow for better air circulation through the center of the plants. I've grown roses for more than 25-years. Many of my rose varieties are prized for their petal formations and fragrances, so maintenance is very important to keeping them healthy and productive.
Here are some photos - enjoy.
These roses that grow close to and along the fence look fuller every year – in part because of regular pruning. Wilmer cuts any superfluous branches or shoots for better-shape.
Here is what they look like before any of the pruning begins.
Wilmer starts on one side and works his way around over the course of a couple days. In general, pruning is done before the plant breaks dormancy. This will be early in the year in warm climates, and anytime between January and April in cold climates.
I also have six of these tower trellises in my flower garden. These rose climbers love these supports and grow beautiful blooms here every season. These will also get pruned in the coming weeks.
Wilmer assesses each bush from the bottom and starts cutting out any of the “three Ds” – dead, damaged or diseased branches.
Cutting away the dead wood first helps to see the shape of the plant without distraction.
Dead wood is typically brown in color, so they are very easy to identify.
Wilmer also looks for any thin or twiggy canes – in general, those that are less than the diameter of a pencil.
Wilmer wears good protective gloves – roses are very thorny.
Pruning the roses keeps the bushes in proportion to the rest of the garden. It is a time consuming task, but a very crucial one for the wellness of these specimens.
Wilmer shows where the cut should be made – always just above a bud eye. The “bud eye” refers to the area on the stem where branching occurs.
When cutting, look for white inside the stem. If it’s brown, cut further down.
Healthy wood is always greenish white.
Wilmer also deadheads any old, spent blooms. This is done to keep roses looking attractive and to encourage more blooms.
We use Okatsune Hand Pruners, with their distinguishable red and white handles. These eight-inch long shears are made from Izumo Yasuki Japanese steel, and are angled to provide a smooth, clean cut without crushing. Ours come from A.M. Leonard.
Wilmer looks for any stems that cross or rub together. Removing these from the bottom ensures better growth – when parts of a plant are pruned off it uses its energy to produce new stems and leaves.
And every few minutes, he stops to evaluate the work he has done and to make sure he hasn’t missed anything that needs more trimming.
Here you can see how pruning improves the shape of the bush.
And provides more air circulation between the branches.
And, of course, all the cuttings are collected and taken to the pile for chipping.