Hard not to love a picturesque snow-covered landscape even if it is light.
Yesterday, we got another dusting of beautiful, white snow that was just enough to stick to the tree branches and shrubs, stone posts, walls, and steps, and the tops of many of the burlap-encased boxwood and ornamental urns. I always love to tour the property when it snows. If it's heavy, I plow the four miles of carriage road. If it is light, I'm out there taking pictures. This storm brought several hours of flurries, and by afternoon peeks of a blue sky.
Enjoy these photos.
By late morning, many tree branches were already covered with a dusting of snow. The forecast called for “possible morning showers” but here at the farm, flurries fell most of the day.
I am always so proud of the trees I’ve planted over the years. This area is where I planted more than 900 evergreen trees. I call it the Christmas Tree garden. They were all just inches tall when planted in 2009 – and look at them now.
This is my allée of lilacs, which during early spring smells so sweet and fragrant covered with gorgeous lilacs in shades of white, pink, and purple.
Here in the Northeast, we had very little rain last year. It’s nice to see the streams flowing again.
The snow was just enough to outline the hole in this tree. I wonder if there are any creatures keeping warm inside.
Do you recognize these trees? In late summer and fall, these trees are filled with apples. These are some of the fruit trees that are original to the farm. I kept them and they’ve continued to be quite prolific, producing excellent apples for cider.
During the winter months, my crew does what I call “cleaning the woods” – picking up branches and other detritus from the woodland. Here’s resident tree expert, Pasang Sherpa, delivering some debris to a pile, which will be chipped later.
The large linden trees are part of an allée I planted several years ago. The linden tree, Tilia, is also referred to as basswood or lime, though it is not related at all to the lime fruit. They are straight stemmed trees with smooth bark. Many of you comment on the fencing. It is 100-year old white spruce fencing from Canada. I love how the snow collects on the fence rails.
Do you know what this is? It’s a hedge of European boxwood safely covered in a layer of burlap. On the left is a cold frame. I am glad we got all the burlap done before the snow. Many ask why I cover everything during winter. The truth is, heavy wet snow could actually splay the branches and injure the shrubs. I cover them to protect them from the elements and to help insulate them.
These are also covered boxwood in the center of my formal rose garden. Larger shrubs and a hedge line the footpath in the center of the bed.
Nearby is this section of my berry patch where in summer I grow thousands of delicious and sweet red raspberries.
This is my winterized dahlia bed. In late fall, I have them all cut down, mulched and then covered with a layer of hay and tarps. The lines in the center are the heavy chains that keep the tarps in place.
Here is a view looking through my fruit orchard not far from my pool. The snow was just enough to fill in the square tree pits.
The pool is now covered for winter, but look closely at the staddle stones at the far end – so perfect in that location.
Staddle stones were originally used as supporting bases for granaries, hayricks, game larders, etc. The staddle stones lifted the granaries above the ground to protect the stored grain from vermin and water seepage.
Here’s the old corn crib, which is original to the property. Its unique “keystone” shape, flaring from bottom to top and more pronounced from the front and back sides, was designed to shed water.
Fortunately it was not damaging snow – everything is intact. Today’s weather is expected to be a mix of clouds and sun, but bitterly cold – highs only in the 20s. This is an old apple tree.
My geese don’t mind this weather, but I do provide shelters to keep them out of the wind and bales of hay to help keep them warm. Most days, they walk around or rest in the middle of their enclosure. Here they are strolling around the peafowl coop – together.
Here is one six of my rare weeping hornbeams. I prune these regularly to keep the beautiful shape.
Here is a view of my perennial flower garden – a different look from summer when it is filled with colorful flowers.
And by afternoon, the clouds parted just enough to reveal this blue sky. Even if you don’t love winter, I am sure you agree, the scenery is breathtaking.
There's always something beautiful to see in my greenhouses.
Inside one of my hoop houses where I store my tender tropical plants for the winter is a section of healthy lush camellias - those dense shrubs with brilliant evergreen foliage and compact habits. Some of them have started to flower, but there are dozens of buds just waiting to open in bright shades of white, cream, pink, and red. Not long ago, I was gifted several more camellias - varieties including "Buttons 'n Bows,' 'Nuccio's Jewel,' 'Moonlight Bay,' 'Little Pearl,' and 'Virginia Robinson.' They will make lovely additions to my collection.
Enjoy these photos.
I have grown potted camellias for many years. The large lush flowers appear and bloom prodigiously for several weeks. Among those already in my collection – Camellia japonica ‘Ave Maria.’
‘Silver Lace’ features showy white round flowers with yellow eyes at the ends of the branches from late winter to early spring. Different varieties of camellias come in various shapes: anemone, single, semi-double, formal double, rose-form double and peony form. Their flowers can be about four-inches in diameter.
‘Can Can’ has soft rose colored flowers with pale pink striations at the base, occasionally, small bright rose splashes and irregular, very pale pink to white borders.
‘Nuccio’s Gem’ fully open is a pure white, perfectly formed camellia flower with three to four inch blossoms. It is one of the most popular camellia varieties.
Recently, a friend gifted me with several more camellias. All in excellent condition from Nuccio’s Nurseries, Inc. in Altadena, California.
Here’s our NYBG gardening intern, Matthew Orego, preparing the potting mix. I always instruct my crew to have everything they need before starting a project to avoid interruptions during the process.
The root balls are wrapped carefully in plastic and newspaper to keep in moisture during transit.
A healthy camellia root ball should have strong, fibrous roots that are firm and white – not brown or weak. They should also be clear of any foul odor or sign of rot.
My head gardener Ryan McCallister selects the proper pots and lines up the exact amount for the new plants. Any pots used should have ample drainage holes in the bottom.
When repotting always select the next size up from the original container. Or, select a pot that is two to three inches larger in diameter than the width of the plant’s root ball.
For these camellias, Ryan uses Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix which is fine for camellias because it is fast-draining and contains sand and perlite to help create the optimal growing environment. For camellias, just avoid using fine peat moss in the mix, which tends to quickly become too dry or too wet.
The soil mix is also rich in nutrients and fortified with iron and plant food.
Ryan fills about one-third of the pots with the new potting mix. Always use fresh potting soil when transplanting as old potting material tends to be soggy and depleted of nutrients.
The root ball should sit about an inch or two above grade, similar to what it was in its original container. When keeping potted camellias, they will require repotting every two or three years as they outgrow their vessels. Once it is at the right level, Ryan backfills the pot with more soil mix.
Then he tamps down lightly to ensure good contact between the roots and the potting mix.
Ryan and Matthew do this for all the camellias. It doesn’t take long before they are all potted up.
The leaves of a camellia are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, and glossy.
A couple of my new camellias already have gorgeous blooms. Their flowers are usually large, colorful, and conspicuous.
Buds start to form in mid-summer and then open from fall through early spring. The beautiful camellia flowers come in mainly white and shades of pink or red, and various combinations.
Just look at all the buds – we’ll have dozens of camellia flowers very soon.
These camellias will be kept in my tropical greenhouse for the cold season, where they can be closely monitored. When selecting a spot for a potted camellia, be sure it gets partial shade and protection from hot afternoon sunlight, as container-grown camellias dry out much faster than shrubs planted in the ground. Also water the plant deeply whenever the top two to four inches of potting mix feels dry to the touch and let it drain completely. Camellias have a reputation for being somewhat difficult to grow, but if one is willing to meet their needs, they’ll provide a long bloom season just when one needs it most.
Here at my farm temperatures today are expected to be in the low 30s - the beginning of a forecasted stretch of cold, wintry days.
When it is this cold, I am so grateful all my tender tropical plants are safe indoors. I have several sizable hoop houses where I store most of my tropical plants over winter. The structures are all made from steel frames and polyethylene panels. Inside, the temperature and humidity levels are closely monitored and can be adjusted when necessary. And every few days, I like to go into each one to see how the plants are doing.
Enjoy these photos.
This is the inside of one of my hoop houses. They work by heating and circulating air to create an artificial tropical environment. The entire structure is built using heavy gauge American made, triple-galvanized steel tubing.
The plants inside are all arranged with enough space in between them, so they don’t touch each other. These plants grow a little more each year, so the placement of these specimens will change every time they are stored.
The houses are checked a couple times each day to make sure the temperature remains comfortably warm inside. Too cold, plants will freeze – too hot, plants will rot. To simulate the best subtropical environment, we try to keep the temperature in this house between 50 and 85-degrees Fahrenheit with some humidity.
The bromeliads in this structure are all blooming. Bromeliads are members of the Bromeliaceae plant family. They feature striking, sword-shaped leaves and a bright, unusual-looking bloom. One of the most well-known bromeliads is the pineapple. These plants are native to tropical North and South America with about half growing in the ground and the remainder as epiphytes, or air plants, that grow on trees or rocks.
Most bromeliads grow as stemless rosettes of leaves that may be symmetrical or twisted and curled.
The jade plants are also flowering. I have always been a fan of jade plants, those evergreen succulents with attractive shiny, dark green, fleshy leaves. I have quite a few of these popular houseplants in my collection. Jade plants need to be at least four to five years old in order to produce flowers. Jade flowers are clusters of tiny, star-shaped, white or pinkish blooms.
I have many agaves, including this giant blue agave with its beautiful gray-blue spiky fleshy leaves. Do you know… tequila is actually distilled from the sap of the blue agave?
This is the top of a potted Beaucarnea recurvata, the elephant’s foot or ponytail palm – a species of plant in the family Asparagaceae, native to the states of Tamaulipas, Veracruz and San Luis Potosí in eastern Mexico. Despite its common name, it is not closely related to the true palms. In fact, it is a member of the Agave family and is actually a succulent.
It has a bulbous trunk, which is used to store water for its long, hair-like leaves that grow from the top of the trunk like a ponytail, giving the plant its name.
This is a Bismarckia palm, Bismarckia nobilis, which grows from a solitary trunk, gray to tan in color, and slightly bulging at the base. The nearly rounded leaves are enormous and are divided to a third its length into 20 or more stiff, once-folded segments.
Bismarckia is a monotypic genus of flowering plant in the palm family endemic to western and northern Madagascar, where they grow in open grassland. The genus is named for the first chancellor of the German Empire Otto von Bismarck and the epithet for its only species, Bismarckia nobilis, comes from Latin for ‘noble’.
Bismarckia nobilis grows from solitary trunks, which are gray to tan in color and show the old leaf bases.
This is the European fan palm. This is a slow-growing, clumping palm that grows eight to 15 feet tall and spreads six to 10 feet wide. This is the only palm native to Europe and is very hardy. The fine-textured fronds make this palm stand out from other plants. The leaf color ranges from lovely light green to silver.
I often underplant various pots with small spreading ground cover plants. Carpet sedum is a low maintenance, sun-loving, evergreen succulent that will thrive where other plants do not. It is native to parts of eastern Asia, with its name coming from the Latin word sedeo, meaning to sit, and lineare meaning linear, because of the narrow leaves. Sedums are often referred to as stonecrops because they are often found growing wild in rocky or stony areas.
The stephanotis plant, also known as Madagascar jasmine, Stephanotis floribunda, is a vine well loved for its deep green leathery foliage and clusters of fragrant white blossoms.
When they bear fruit, it’s a pod packed full of seeds that forms just after flower-bearing.
The staghorn fern is an unusual and attractive epiphyte that thrives in the tropics. I adore staghorns and over the years have collected quite a few of these magnificent specimens. Staghorn ferns are called Platyceriums. They are Old World tropicals native to Africa, northern Australia, and Southeast Asia.
The staghorn fern leaves are actually called fronds, and staghorn ferns have two types. The first is the “antler” frond – these are the large leaves that shoot out of the center of the plant, and from which staghorn ferns get their names, since they resemble the antlers of deer or moose.
The second type of staghorn fern frond is called the shield frond. These are the round, hard plate-like leaves that surround the base of the plant. Their function is to protect the plant roots, and take up water and nutrients.
This is another agave – one of many in my collection. It’s always so satisfying to walk into these hoop houses and see all the plants thriving. I am glad all my precious plants can be stored safely indoors during the winter. And of course, I always look forward to when they can come out of hiding again in the spring.
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