Pruning My Old Apple Trees
There's still time to prune those fruit trees.
If you grow apple trees, you understand the importance of annual pruning and training to develop proper shape and form. When done correctly, pruned trees live longer and have a much better chance of producing more fruit. Not long ago, I had wild apple collector and apple specialist, Matt Kaminski from Sunderland, Massachusetts, work on two of my favorite old apple trees here at my farm - the specimens located in the center paddock now nestled within my living maze. Matt, who is also known as Gnarly Pippins, opened up the tree canopies, cut any unnecessary branches, and improved the overall framework to support the next bounty of sweet, crisp apples.
Here are some photos, enjoy.
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- Apples come in all shades of red, green, and yellow. My fruit trees are extremely healthy, in part because of all the care and maintenance that is done to keep them doing well year to year.
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- At my farm, I have many, many apple trees – some I’ve planted and others that are about 100-years old and original to the property. These are two of my “ancient” apple trees. I have photographed them many times.
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- Several years ago, we added these vertical struts or crutches to support the heavy limbs. I’m so glad these trees have held up well and continue to grow and produce.
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- This limb is very old – one can see the exposed interior, but it is still very strong and many branches still grow from it.
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- Here I am with Matt looking at one of the trees. We discuss the health of the tree and where he feels it needs trimming. Late winter or early spring is the best time to prune. The tree takes up a dormant state after shedding its leaves and before sprouting new buds.
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- There are two main goals of pruning trees. On young trees, pruning encourages a tough, solid framework. And on mature trees, they usually already have their shape determined, so it’s important to maintain that shape and size.
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- This is one of Matt’s trusted pruning saws. He actually makes his own saw handles for his favorite blades. This blade has a slightly curved tip, so branches can be pulled out more easily.
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- Pruning saws have serrated blades and are used to cut branches up to 10-inches in diameter. Matt recommends making bigger cuts before doing the small, detail-oriented pruning cuts to ensure there aren’t any redundancies.
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- Here, Matt cuts the smaller branches and twigs. They are snipped off with regular secateurs. Like me, Matt prefers pruning work be done by hand as it creates a more natural appearance and shape.
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- These are bypass loppers for branches up to two-inches in diameter.
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- With their single-edged blades, loppers are perfect for cutting live wood and delivering clean and precise cuts.
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- Matt also uses a telescoping pole saw for cutting hard to reach branches.
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- It is important to always use sharp tools whenever pruning so that the cuts are clean. Dull tools are difficult to use and could even damage the tree. A straight, clean-cut promotes quick healing of the wound and reduces stress on the specimen.
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- Matt removes the main Ds in pruning – dead, dying, diseased, drooping, discolored, and divergent, or inward facing branches. Notice this branch is almost black at the joint – it definitely needed to be cut.
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- As he prunes, Matt stops occasionally to see how the tree looks – the sections he has pruned and what he still has to do. He says always take into consideration how light can enter the canopy and the stability of the branches.
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- He cuts out branches that contribute to clogged, thick areas of the canopy.
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- And he thins the many water sprouts, which are the spindly branches that normally grow straight up from lateral branches and do not bear fruit. He does, however, leave some because sprouts can help a tree rebuild its energy reserves.
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- Pasang, who is our resident tree expert and also a very skilled pruner, learns more tips by watching Matt at work.
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- After the branches are cut, they are gathered, piled, and then either saved for kindling or processed through a wood chipper and returned to woods.
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- Here is one of the trees all finished. And don’t forget the soil. Good soil health is very important. Amend the soil as needed with compost or other fertilizer. Thanks for pruning, Matt – the trees look great! I can’t wait to see the fruits of your labor come autumn.
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